As the conversation around sustainability in viticulture grows, many vineyard owners are asking: what’s next after organic certification? For Hilary Graves, Vineyard and Grower Relations Manager at Booker Wines in Paso Robles, the answer was clear — go regenerative.
In Episode 077 of the Vineyard Underground podcast, Hilary shares what it really took to transition an organic vineyard to regenerative organic certification. From cover crop diversity to integrating livestock, this episode is full of on-the-ground strategies, cautionary tales, and some big wins for soil health and sustainability.
Why Go Regenerative?
While Booker Wines was already farming organically, Hilary and her team saw value in taking things further. Regenerative organic certification layers in three key pillars: soil health, animal welfare, and social fairness. For Hilary, the social aspect was especially important — supporting farmworkers fairly wasn’t just good business, it aligned with her values.
From Five to Fifteen Cover Crop Species
One of the biggest shifts came in the form of cover cropping. What started as a five-species mix (the certification minimum) quickly turned into a 15-species blend as Hilary saw the benefits firsthand. Increased biodiversity not only helped suppress weeds and boost soil biology — it also provided habitat for beneficial insects and food for grazing livestock.
Sheep, Plows, and Smart Tillage
Integrating sheep for early-season mowing turned out to be both efficient and cost-effective. The herd helps terminate cover crops and provides manure, while the vineyard supplies regenerative-certified feed. Meanwhile, the Yeomans plow became a key tool for improving water infiltration without disturbing soil structure — a must on steep, calcareous slopes.
Hilary also shared why mowing under the vine didn’t work with her tight vine spacing — and how low-impact undervine cultivation using Clemens equipment proved more effective.
Rethinking Pest Management
When pyrethrin sprays failed to curb leafhopper pressure, Hilary turned to a more natural (and high-tech) solution: predatory lacewing larvae dropped into the vineyard by drone. The result? Fewer sprays, lower labor costs, and better control without compromising beneficial insect populations.
Making a Difference That Resonates
Beyond the soil and vines, Hilary emphasized how regenerative practices connect with consumers. In a tough market, telling an authentic farming story can help brands stand out.
“Even a tiny change, when applied across all the acres you manage, can make a big impact,” she says.
For growers curious about regenerative organic certification, Hilary recommends starting small and focusing on what’s already working. Sometimes the next step forward is already underway.If you want to learn more about regenerative organic certification, check out https://www.vineyardundergroundpodcast.com/vu077.
